I have often been conflicted about ratatouille. Not about eating it, because that is an undisputed pleasure, but about cooking it. On the one hand, making the classic Provençal stew of tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant and peppers is an easy way to transform those vegetables, which are at their bountiful peak in August, into comfort food that captures and concentrates the flavors of the season. Then again, it’s the middle of summer, for goodness’ sake; who wants to be in the kitchen cooking stew? The simple...
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