Relief washes over you after a first meal at Pushkin’s Restaurant, the 4-month-old breakfast and lunch cafe from the couple behind Sacramento’s popular Pushkin’s gluten-free bakery. The gluten- and often also dairy-free dishes are hearty without being heavy, thus eliminating the previously inevitable-seeming big-breakfast hangover. The one where you enter the restaurant eager and chipper, but exit wanting to rub your stomach and chew a toothpick, Boss Hog-style. The relief also derives partly from how good the food tastes. I never ate Pushkin’s baked goods before I visited the restaurant, but I have eaten a lot of gluten-free cookies and muffins from elsewhere. There were about five...
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