I love a chef who takes as much care with vegetables as with meat and seafood. And I don’t mean he or she can make a mean salad or stir-fry — dishes that, as delicious as they can be, often combine lots of produce into a single mélange. I’m thinking instead of recipes that demonstrate a focus on the technique of cooking a particular vegetable in a way that makes it shine on the plate. That’s what Chris Bianco does. He’s the Phoenix chef and restaurateur best known for making some of the country’s best pizza, and the author of the new “Bianco: Pizza, Pasta, and Other Food I Like” (Ecco, 2017). Bianco is an equal-opportunity chef, piling pulled lamb onto sandwiches and soppressata onto pizza...
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